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11th February 2016 by Johannes
Motorcycle Travel Logbook, Roads to Persia

Nemrut Dağı: the finale

Nemrut Dağı: the finale
11th February 2016 by Johannes
Motorcycle Travel Logbook, Roads to Persia

I left Nemrut Dagı and set course for Nemrut Dagı. You doubt my sanity here? This notion might not be totally wrong (there will be further evidence later in this episode) but this statement isn’t actually as idiotic as it seems. There are two Nemrut Dagı in Turkey, the one I left and another one further to the east next to lake Van, this one is a volcano albeit it’s lacking the megalomaniac king.

Kurdish countryside. Quite often I get asked if I'm lost and the people want to guide me to the mainroad. It is difficult to make them understand that I avoid the mainroads on purpose.
I might be a god too. I ordered the sun to set in the west and it obeyed.
And giant floating spiders don't scare me.
Two boys watching while I took a break by the side of the road. Later their parents passed by and gave me some apples just like that.
The mainroad in on of the many towns on my way.
I slept in front of an abandoned mosque with an amazing view.
And took a bath in this well next to the mosque, much to the dismay of a toad which lived here.
Often the locals want to get their picture taken. These ones started to fool around when I had the camera out.
Tatvan
Got my boots polished in Tatvan, they haven't shone like that when they were new.

During the two days crossing eastern Turkey I realized two things. One was the heat, I was getting exhausted really fast due to riding in these temperatures. At one point I wanted to descent into a river valley to rest and cool down with my feet in the water but I dropped the motorcycle on the steep gravel road leading down. Usually this is no problem, it takes some strength but I can pick it up. This time I was totally exhausted after I got the bike upright, sweating, panting , strangely dizzy and without any strength left. It took me almost 2 hours resting in the shadows before I continued. I started wondering what kind of stupid decision it was to got to Iran in summer (funfact: highest recorded temperature is 70°C in Iran).

The other thing was, that I stick out. Somewhat obvious as a traveller on a motorcycle, but wherever I stop I’m the center of attention. People stop and look, some start to talk and ask questions, the lack of a common language doesn’t stop them. I can understand them but it takes getting used to and it starts to get uncomfortable when groups of people stare or touch my stuff.

After a stop in Tatvan to get supplies I entered the volcano. It consists of a large caldera with several lakes inside, at the shore of one of them I set up my camp. There I met a russian hitchhiker, who stayed for the night aswell. We spent the time swimming in the lake and exchanging travel stories at the campfire.

Caldera of Nemrut Dagı
Obsidian (volcanic glass)
The local chief of police, off duty but with bodyguards. We talked a little bit, but one of the guards spoke better english and was asked for translation several times by the chief.
Traffic madness in Van

My last stop before going to Iran was in the city of Van. I needed to get some last-minute information for the border crossing and do some other preparations. Unfortunately I had to wait for two days for ramadan to end. The celebration at the end of the fasting month were in full swing and all shops and business were closed down at that time. Then there was also this wretched person who stole the chainlube out of my otherwise empty panniers while the bike parked in front of the hotel. I haven’t found any proper chainlube to buy in Van and had to resort to gearbox oil to lube the chain. Annoying (and probably my own fault for leaving stuff to steal outside) but this was the only time something was stolen from me during the whole trip and I wouldn’t let that dampen my excitement for Iran.

Route (Fullscreen):

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